"Help Guide to Buying a Computer"

For the "less-computer-oriented" people

by L. Scott Caldwell

December 10, 1996



Edition (Version) 2.01

Copyright   1994 - 1997

All Rights Reserved
CONTENTS


I.   Special Thanks.............................................3

II.  Introduction...............................................4

III. CharityWare................................................5

IV.  Where to Find Future Versions..............................7

V.   Trademarks.................................................8

VI.  Disclaimer.................................................9

1.   So It's Decision Time.....................................10

2.   Chassis...................................................18

3.   Processor.................................................21

4.   RAM.......................................................27

5.   Disk Drive................................................30

6.   Monitor...................................................36

7.   Printer...................................................44

8.   Modem.....................................................49

9.   Mouse.....................................................56

10.  Multi-Media...............................................60

11.  Software..................................................65

12.  Protecting your Computer and your Data....................74
I.        Special Thanks

I would like to thank the most important people in my life for 
helping me write this "Help Guide to Buying a Computer".  

To GOD whom has always stood by my side and helped me when I 
needed a good swift kick in the pants.

To my wife, Tanya whom has always supported me in my efforts even 
though computers, in general, frustrate her.   She did most of 
the editing on this guide to ensure that "normal" people would 
understand it, and to make sure all my "garbled" ideas came 
together in an understandable and coherent form.

To my Parents, for their support and understanding when I took 
apart the lawn mover when I was five years old and couldn't put 
it back together.  They always understood my passion for 
computers and things that go "beep".   Additional thanks goes to 
my father for his help with technical issues in this help guide.

To my uncle Bill and aunt Winona for their help in the editing of 
this guide.  Their eagle eyes  helped to catch all those little 
mistakes I missed.

To my sister-in-law Teresa, for her additional editing help and 
suggestions.

To my cat, Jack for reminding me of the simple things in life, 
like playing when I get so frustrated by work.

Thank you all for everything... I owe you so much.









II.       Introduction

     I have been involved with computers for many years of my 
life.  I was raised around them and considered them to be as 
normal as many people consider televisions, radios and cars.  I  
have always enjoyed using computers, working on them, upgrading 
them, etc. so it seemed only natural that I would choose 
something to do with computers as my life-long career.

     During my career with computers I have often been asked 
"What should I buy?"  and "Do I really need this much computer?".  
That is one of the reasons I decided to write this "Help Guide to 
Buying a Computer".  Computers have come naturally to me, but I 
realize they can be incredibly confusing for other people.   I  
hope this guide will assist others in that ever confusing 
decision of buying a computer. 

     This guide will cover mostly IBM and IBM compatible 
(compatible with IBM's original computer and software design) 
hardware and software and not Apple computers.  However, since 
some hardware used by Apple, IBM, and compatibles is the same, 
some of this information will apply to Apple.


















III.      CharityWare

Copyright   1994 - 1997 by L. Scott Caldwell   All Rights 
Reserved

This guide may not be distributed for financial gain and/or this 
guide may not be included in commercial collections or 
compilations without express written
permission from the author.

This help guide is not free, but in fact, CharityWare. 

     CharityWare is very similar to Shareware, because they both 
allow you to evaluate the product (in this case a help guide) for 
a total of fifteen (15) days, and pay for it only if you use it.  
However, the following conditions are specific to CharityWare and 
not to Shareware:

-    Rather than send me (the author) the registration money, you 
MUST donatethat same registration money ($15) to a "worthwhile" 
Charity (church, RedCross, AIDS research, etc.).  That doesn't 
mean to donate it to your
     pocket!   If you use this guide (even a small part of it), 
you MUST donate the
     registration fee ($15) to Charity.  For every computer that 
is purchased withknowledge gained from any part of this guide, 
there must be a $15 donationmade to a Charity.  I consider a 
donation of $15 a small price to pay to getwhat you want in a 
computer and to be an informed buyer.  Doing anythingother than 
donating the $15 fee is a violation of the law.  Don't forget you
     may be able to write the donation off your taxes.
     
-    You also must still send the following registration form to 
me (without
     any money, unless you're ordering a printed copy of this 
guide, are in a                                                  
really good mood, or just have more money than you know what to 
do with).                                                        
The registration form helps me to keep track of who is using this 
guide.                                                      Any 
comments about this guide (likes, dislikes, improvements, etc.) 
will                                                        
assist  me in my efforts to update and add new information.
     



REGISTRATION FORM

Help Guide to Buying a Computer - Edition 2.01
Copyright   1994 - 1997 by L. Scott Caldwell   All Rights 
Reserved

Mail  to: L. Scott Caldwell
          3101 Linwood
          Independence, MO 64055

If you would rather e-mail me the registration form (please 
e-mail the entire form) then send it to: scaldwel@sky.net.

If you would like a printed copy of this guide (the latest 
Edition) then send $25.00 (US funds) along with this registration 
form to me.  You are still required to donate $15 to a Charity, 
even if you order a printed copy of this guide.

If you are ordering the printed copy of this guide, and would 
like the latest version of this guide on disk; then please 
specify the diskette size that is acceptable.

___ 5.25"   ___ 3.5"
  Name: 


Company: 


Address: 


Phone:                   E-mail address: 


Charity you're donating to: 


Where did you get this guide (specifically)? 


Comments: 





IV.       Where to Find Future Editions

     If you would like to receive future editions of this guide 
in an electronic format then you may obtain it from the following 
sources:

-    The guide can always be obtained directly from me.  Feel 
free to e-mail meat scaldwel@sky.net, and we'll discuss getting 
you an updated version.

-    My Internet World Wide Web (WWW) site address is
     http://www.sky.net/~scaldwel.  Follow the instructions on 
the first page toreceive the guide.  There are other areas of 
interest on my WWW page so feelfree to look around.

     I have already started planning for the next edition of this 
guide, and I will be adding several new chapters, charts, and 
more.    I really think you'll like it so look for it in the next 
few months.



















V.   Trademarks

IBM, PC, XT, AT, PS/2 and OS/2 are trademarks of  International 
Business                                                         
Machines.
Compaq is a trademark of Compaq Computer Corporation.
Intel is a trademark Intel Computer Corporation.
Hayes is a trademark of Hayes Microcomputer Products, Inc.
WordPerfect and Presentations are trademarks of WordPerfect 
Corporation.
Microsoft and Windows are trademarks of Microsoft Corporation.
All other trademarks are of their respective companies.

























VI.       Disclaimer

     I wrote this guide out of the goodness of my heart to try to 
help people who
thought they could use some help buying a computer.  However, you 
accept this
information with the understanding that the author (L. Scott 
Caldwell) makes no
representation or warranties as to the reliability or suitability 
of this information for
your particular purpose, and to the extent you use or implement 
this information
in your own setting, you do so at your own risk.  I've tried to 
make reasonable
efforts within my means to verify this information.  However, the 
information
provided in this document is FOR YOUR INFORMATION only and is 
accepted by
you "AS IS."  Configuration(s) tested or described may or may not 
be the only
available solution.  IN NO EVENT WILL THE AUTHOR (L. Scott 
Caldwell) BE
LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES, WHETHER DIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL,
INCIDENTAL OR SPECIAL, ARISING OUT OF USE OF OR INABILITY TO
USE THIS INFORMATION PROVIDED.

     This guide may not be distributed for financial gain and/or 
this guide may not be included in commercial collections or 
compilations without the express written permission of the 
author.  This guide must be kept together in its entirety and may 
not be separated, modified, sold, leased, etc. without express 
written permission from the author.  If you want to give a copy 
to a friend then give them a copy of the ENTIRE guide (every 
single page) including all Copyright and Disclaimer pages.  In 
addition, notify them that they are still required to send me the 
registration form and to donate the registration fee to charity.

Copyright   1994 - 1997 by L. Scott Caldwell   All Rights 
Reserved

Well, now that I have the legal stuff out of the way, let us 
proceed to the good stuff. 


----------
CHAPTER 1




So It's Decision Time













     So, you have decided you need a computer and it's decision 
time on what to buy.  Do you buy a 486, a Pentium or a Power PC?   
Do you need a 14", 15" or 17" monitor?   Do you need 8 or 16 
megabytes of  RAM?  Do any of these terms ring a bell?  Do you 
have any idea of what I'm talking about?  If you're like most 
people, probably not.

     The first step in any major decision is to break the 
decision down into smaller pieces.  Therefore, each piece of the 
problem can be attacked separately and won't seem so difficult to 
manage.  A computer is nothing more than a bunch of pieces put 
together, and those pieces work together towards some goal.  The 
same is true of your car, VCR, television, and even your shoes.  

Taking that into consideration, let's look at the problem and 
then break it down.

The Problem:
I want to buy a computer, but I don't know what kind I want, what 
to get in it, how much to pay for it, where to buy it, etc, etc, 
etc.

Break the Problem Down:
- I want to buy a computer.
- I want to buy it from a computer company who will help me when 
I have        problems/questions.
- I want to pay a reasonable price for it.
- I want to buy a quality brand.

     Now that the problem is broken down, we can look at each 
piece of the decision with more focus.  The following is a series 
of questions you should ask yourself and think hard about, 
because within each of your answers lies the answer to your total 
computer buying decision.


1)   How much do I want to pay for the computer (including 
printer, and                                                     
otherperipherals (mouse, hand-scanners, etc), software (computer 
programs), etc.)?

Price is not a good criteria for buying a computer, but knowing 
what your budget will allow you to spend will help you with your 
buying decision.  Often, the only difference between a good 
computer and a great computer is less than a couple of hundred 
dollars.  Service after the sale is your number one 
consideration, because there is enough competition to keep 
computer prices comparable.  However, if you choose a company 
with a poor service record then you may just be out of luck.


2)   How much will I use the computer in a given week or month?

Knowing how much you intend to use it will help you decide on how 
much you really need your computer to do for you.  In other 
words, if you don't intend to use it much for doing much or very 
often, then you probably shouldn't  pay for a very powerful or 
full-featured computer.  For example:  If you use it eight hours 
a day then your computing needs may be more demanding compared to 
someone who only uses a computer two hours a month.  Take this 
into consideration when buying a computer.

3)   What will I use my computer for?

This is the primary reason you're buying the computer so you must 
be honest with yourself on what you intend to use your computer 
for.  For example:  If you intend to do basic word-processing and 
only intend to keep the computer for a couple of years then why 
pay for a complete Multi-Media Computer?

Consider the table in Figure 1a as a comparison of different 
computers suggested for different tasks.




Computer            How the Computer will be used
Type



            Normal
            Programs Intensive
                     Programs Games
                              Multi-Media Intensive
                                          Multi-Media Intensive 
                                                      Everything

486
High-End 
Multi-Media 
            X                 
                              X                       

Pentium
Low-End
Multi-Media 
            X                 
                              X                       

Pentium
Mid-Line
Multi-Media 
            X        
                     X        
                              X           
                                          X           

Pentium
High-End
Multi-Media 
            X        
                     X        
                              X           
                                          X           
                                                      XFigure 1a 
- Computer comparison for various tasks.
  Note   - See Chapter 3, 10 and 11 for more information on 
Processors,
     Multi-Media, and Software.  Multi-Media is gaining 
popularity so mostcomputers being sold today are Multi-Media 
capable.


4)   Where will I want to use my computer?

This may seem like a strange question, but right now the largest 
number of computers being sold are "Notebook" computers.   
Notebook computers are portable, battery powered computers 
designed to be easy to take and use anywhere.   They may be just 
as powerful as a "normal" computer that sits on your desk.  If 
you're an active business traveler or just enjoy the freedom of 
taking your computer with you, then a notebook computer should be 
a consideration.  However, be warned,  typically notebooks will 
cost a fair
amount more than a comparable "normal" computer that sits on your 
desk, because you pay for the portability.
5)   How long do I intend to keep the computer?

Knowing how long you intend to keep your computer will help you 
decide whether other questions are relevant to your computer 
buying decision.
For example:  If you know:

     - you're only going to keep your computer for a few years
     - you don't intend to add any additional equipment to it 
(more drives,                                                      
cards, etc.),
     
then the question of "How much upgradability do I want?" becomes 
irrelevant.


6)   Do I want my computer to be upgradable or expandable at some 
point inthe future?

Often the terms "upgradable" and "expandable" are confused so let 
me clarify them.  "Upgradable" generally means to be able to 
replace with newer, "better" or faster components.  Upgradable is 
most often used when referring to replacing the computer 
"motherboard".  "Expandable" generally means the ability to add 
additional components (individual parts of the computer like 
memory chips, disk drives, tape drives, CD-ROM drives, etc.) to 
your computer.  

Unfortunately, most computer buyers today fail to ask themselves 
this question.
If you intend to keep your computer up to date or want your 
computer to be able to grow with you, then the computer you buy 
must be upgradable and expandable, with parts from most sources 
(IE. local computer stores).

For example:  Let's say I buy a 486 computer with enough room for 
three additional disk drives (see Chapter 5 for more information 
on Disk Drives).  I keep the computer for two months and decide I 
need additional hard drive
capacity for my programs.  Since I thought ahead, I bought a 
computer that had extra room for disk drives and I "expand" it by 
adding an additional hard drive so I have more hard drive 
capacity.  Let's say I want to replace the CPU chip with a 
Pentium chip (see 

Chapter 3 for more information on Processors) then I would be 
"Upgrading" the computer.

     Generally speaking, buying an upgradable computer is harder 
than it may seem, because some computer manufacturers have 
complicated the process by introducing what's called "Proprietary 
Upgradability".  Proprietary Upgradability is a fancy term that 
simply means if you intend to upgrade the computer then you must 
buy the upgrade parts from your computer manufacturer, because no 
one else makes the parts.  For example: Compaq designs it's 
DeskPro M series to be processor upgradable, but you must buy 
Compaq's proprietary plug-in-board to actually upgrade the 
computer.

Unfortunately, more and more computer manufacturers are choosing 
Proprietary Upgradability, because the computers cost less to 
produce.  When you take into consideration the cost of upgrading 
by using these companies' proprietary methods, you're usually 
better off just going out and buying a new computer!  Yes, you 
read right!

A great rule of thumb for upgrading (I said Upgrade, not Expand) 
your computer is, "don't spend more than 40 percent of what it 
would cost to purchase a new computer that's twice as fast". For 
example, if you have a 486DX-33, and a new Pentium 75Mhz costs 
$1500, don't spend more than $600 to upgrade your current 
computer.


7)   What software do I intend to use on my computer?

Virtually all computers sold today come with basic software such 
as DOS and Microsoft Windows plus a number of manufacturers are 
including other
software with the computers.  They may include word processors, 
spreadsheet software, graphics programs, games, etc.  For more 
information on Software programs, see Chapter 11.

This is an advantage for you because you pay less for the 
software (they figure the software cost into the total computer 
price) and the computer companies install the software for you at 
the factory.  Unfortunately, there are sometimes negatives to the 
software being installed at the factory.  For example: The 
manufacturers don't always install the most current version of 
the software and don't always include the original diskettes with 
the computer.  The original diskettes must be purchased 
separately.

Although the computer companies usually offer several programs or 
packages of programs to choose from, when you buy your computer 
don't forget to ask about other offered software.  There may be a 
software program you want or need that they will substitute for a 
program that normally comes with the computer.


8)   Who will use the computer?

Knowing who will use the computer before you buy it will allow 
you to be a more critical buyer.  For example:  Let's say your 
five-year-old daughter will be using the computer for educational 
purposes.   If your daughter's hand is too small for the mouse, 
she may become frustrated and lose interest.  So much for your 
investment.  However, if you thought ahead then you would have 
purchased a computer with a smaller mouse so she could easily use 
it.

Pay attention to size, shape, etc, because even small changes can 
greatly affect your computer experience.  Don't be afraid to go 
out to a local computer store and get some real "hands-on" 
experience before you buy.


9)   Where will be computer be in your home or office?

This is another question most people forget to consider.  Knowing 
how much space you have and where it is can help you buy a 
computer to meet your living style.  
For example:  If you have limited space then you shouldn't buy a 
large computer.  If you have limited desktop area then you should 
look more for a tower design (a computer that can stand safely on 
the floor next to the desk).  Chapter 2 shows several computer 
designs you can choose from.  It is important for you to find a 
strong, stable place for the computer to sit, because you 
wouldn't want it to fall.
10)  What should my computer area look or feel like?

This is a very important area.  You should position your computer 
monitor so it is at a comfortable viewing  height.  Your keyboard 
should be at a comfortable typing height (usually 26 to 30 inches 
for most adults).  If you have decided to buy a desk then please 
try lots of them because no two desks will feel the same.  A good 
desk will give you and your computer years of comfortable use 
while a bad desk may make your computer experience miserable. 


11)  Where should I buy the computer?

I hate seeing those "Wholesale Outlet" advertisements, because 
they talk about some computer and then make it sound so great.  
However, if you look at the fine print, you can see the computer 
they're selling usually leaves a lot to be desired.  They all- 
too-often leave out or don't tell you some very important 
information that you should know and consider, so be careful and 
always compare what you know to the fine print.  Remember, price 
isn't everything and if the price seems too good to be true then 
it probably is!


12)  If I have a computer now, how do I sell it?

Since money is money and selling your existing computer may help 
you afford your new computer.  I suggest the following:

     - Place advertisements using electronic mail (e-mail) on a 
local computer                                                   
Bulletin Board System (BBS) 
     - Look in the newspaper before you place the advertisement.  
There will                                                       
likely be other computers being advertised and you can compare 
prices to make sure yours is in-line with the other computers
     - Word of mouth (ask friends, relatives, co-workers, etc.)

----------
CHAPTER 2

Chassis













     The computer "Chassis" is the metal (partially plastic) box 
that holds all of the "guts" of the computer including its disk 
drives, RAM, CPU, etc.  The chassis can be made in all sizes and 
shapes and each has it's own advantages and disadvantages.  
Fortunately,  there are several standard sizes that I'll explain 
below.  




Full Tower Chassis

                              The Full Tower Chassis is the 
largest chassis design and                   allows for the most 
upgradability and expandability, but
                              it also cost more than any other 
chassis design.  This                   chassis is intended to 
stand on the floor next to a desk so                   it is out 
of the way.  If you intend to add lots of drives                 
(see Chapter 5), then you'll want this chassis.











Mini Tower Chassis
     The Mini Tower Chassis has quickly become the chassisof 
choice.  It can be placed on the floor next to the desk orcan be 
placed on the desktop because of it's small size.  Itoffers more 
space for drives and costs less than mostdesktop and slimline 
chassis.  This is the chassis I would                       
recommend for users that don't foresee adding more thanone or two 
additional drives and want an easy-to-live withchassis design.







 Desktop Chassis
                                             The Desktop Chassis 
is still the most common type of
                                             chassis sold, and it 
has been around ever since IBM's very             first PC .  
This chassis generally has less expansion         capability than 
the mini-tower chassis and is intended tosit on the desktop 
(hence its name).



 Slimline Chassis


                         The Slimline Chassis is the smallest 
chassis, but it               greatly limits your expandability 
or upgradability.                       Manufacturers that use 
this chassis design usually design                these computers 
to be proprietary (not standard), so                   fixing, 
upgrading or expanding is either relatively                      
expensive or not possible at all.  Be leery of this 
chassisbecause you're still better off with a mini-tower chassis.



----------
CHAPTER 3

Processor







Understanding CPU Generations

     Computer processors, also known as the CPUs (Central 
Processing Units), are the heart and soul of every computer.  
Without the CPU the computer doesn't think, and therefore, it 
doesn't work.  Intel (I know you have seen their ads on TV about 
the "Intel inside" idea) has been supplying IBM and most IBM 
compatible (compatible with IBM's original computer and software 
design) computer makers with CPUs since their beginning.  
Therefore, Intel sets the standard when it comes to IBM 
compatible CPUs and that's what I will explain to you.

The following chart shows each generation of CPU used in IBM and 
compatible computers.  Intel named each generation of its CPU 
with a number, and often these CPU chips are referred to by the 
last three digits of their number.  For example:  an 80386 is 
referred to as a 386.  The 80486 is a 486 and so on.

CPU type       CPU Generation      Typical Speeds

8088           First               4.77Mhz
8086           Revised First       4.77Mhz
80286          Second              6Mhz-16Mhz
80386          Third                    16Mhz-40Mhz
80486          Fourth              25Mhz-120Mhz
Pentium *      Fifth               60Mhz-150Mhz

  Note   -The CPU types are numbers created by Intel, but Intel 
calls their                                                      
80586 chip a Pentium, because they wanted to copyright the CPU
          name.  I have left certain technical information out of 
the above
          example, for reasons of clarity.

Currently, only 486 and Pentium CPUs are sold in NEW computers so 
don't expect to see any of the lower version CPUs in new 
computers.  If you do, walk away .




Understanding CPU Speeds (MHz)

     The MHz (pronounced meg'  hurts') of a computer CPU is  how 
fast (how much it gets done) the computer runs.  Plain and 
simple, the larger the MHz number; the faster (the more powerful) 
the computer.  For example:  a 33Mhz 486 is 



Figure 2a  - The above processor numbers are estimates and 
intended to show 
          the differences in processor speeds.  I chose not to 
include the
          Pentium 60Mhz and 66Mhz processors because a Pentium 
75Mhz 
          is more powerful for the same money.


faster than a 25Mhz 486.  However, that doesn't mean a 66Mhz 486 
is faster than a 60Mhz Pentium.  Each generation of  CPU is 
designed to be faster than the previous generation and that's why 
a 60Mhz Pentium is roughly 15%-20% faster than a 66Mhz 486.   
Figure 2a gives a graphical view of how CPU's have become faster 
over the years.   IBM's very first Personal Computer, the IBM PC, 
is considered the basis for all CPU speed comparisons so I've 
included it in the Figure.  Look at how much faster newer 
computers are compared to the original IBM PC back in 1981.

The following shows the price ranges of current processors.  If 
you would like a more technical explanation of the differences 
between these processors, see below.

     Pentium 150Mhz
     Pentium 133Mhz      High-End
     Pentium 120Mhz

     Pentium 100Mhz      Middle-Line
     Pentium 90Mhz

     Pentium 75Mhz
     Pentium 66Mhz
     Pentium 60Mhz
     486 DX4-120Mhz           
     486 DX4-100Mhz           Low-End
     486 DX2-80Mhz
     486 DX4-75Mhz
     486 DX2-66Mhz
     
Understanding The Difference Between the SX, DX, DX2, and DX4 
CPUs

     When Intel introduced the first 386s back in 1985, they also 
introduced the computer industry to two new terms, DX and SX.  
The letters aren't abbreviations for anything (or at least Intel 
never admitted it), but they do tell you a lot about a CPU's 
speed.  In 386 terms, there is a large difference between DX and 
SX CPUs.  When comparing processing power,  a 386 DX will 
flat-out run circles around a 386 SX.  A couple of years later 
Intel introduced the 486 and changed the definitions of DX and 
SX.  Generally speaking, a 486 DX is equal in processing power to 
a 486 SX.  However, the big area where a 486 DX outperforms a 486 
SX is when the CPU has to do math calculations.  For example:  If 
you use a program that does lots of math calculations (such as 
CAD, Lotus, etc.), then a 486 DX will get the job done 
considerably faster than a 486 SX.  

     Unfortunately, I need to get "technical" for just a moment 
to explain a very important aspect of CPUs.  Ever since the very 
first IBM PC, computers have been HEAVILY dependent on what is 
called a Clock chip.  For computers to be accurate they have to 
"think" exactly a certain number of times every second, and the 
clock chip's speed dictates how fast the CPU operates.  
Therefore, if the clock goes a certain speed then the CPU must go 
that same speed.  Otherwise, the CPU won't work. That was the law 
until the DX2 and DX4 came on the scene (see below).

     Obviously, the CPU isn't the whole computer.  The CPU must 
communicate with the disk drives, monitor, mouse, keyboard, etc. 
and this is called External processing.  When the CPU does 
arithmetic operations, decision making, logical operations, etc. 
it is doing what is called Internal processing.  Remember this 
and it will all come together in the paragraphs below.

     Shortly after the 486 introduction, Intel introduced a new 
chip called an "Overdrive" processor.  The Overdrive processor 
was designed to be used with computers that have 486 SX CPUs and 
the end result is an increase in performance.  For example:  If I 
place an Overdrive processor into a 486 SX-25Mhz
(you must have an Overdrive processor socket) then when the 
computer does arithmetic operations, decision making, logical 
operations (remember this is called Internal processing), these 
operations are done at twice (50Mhz) the clock speed of the 
original 486 SX-25 (25Mhz).  Therefore, Externally the computer 
runs at the same speed (25Mhz), but Internally the computer runs 
at 50Mhz.  This doubling of the computer speed is called "Clock 
Doubling"; therefore, the Overdrive processor is referred to as a 
"clock-doubler" processor.  The net effect is that the Overdrive 
processor does everything at least as quickly as a 486 SX-25, and 
many operations twice as fast!  Overall, the Overdrive processor 
will speed up your computer by about one-third to one-half.  

     Again, shortly after Intel introduced the Overdrive 
processor (Are you noticing a pattern here?) it introduced a CPU 
called a DX2.  The DX2 is nothing more than a 486 DX and an 
Overdrive processor combined into one processor.
The major benefits of a DX2 are that you get the benefits of an 
Overdrive processor (the clock doubling) at a lower cost since 
the 486 DX and Overdrive processors are cheaper when built 
together rather than purchased separately.  In 1993, Intel 
introduced "clock tripled" processors that are entire processors, 
just like the DX2s, but run at triple the speed of the original 
clock speed.  For Example: a 486 DX4-75 runs at a clock speed of 
25Mhz Externally and 75Mhz Internally.   Intel calls this "clock 
triplers", but their name for the CPU is DX4.  If you are trying 
to figure out why the name and number don't match; it's because 
of a lawsuit a few years back.  

     Pentium CPUs also use different Internal and External 
speeds, but because this was built into the CPU from the start, 
it has considerably less of an impact compared to the 486 CPUs.  
Therefore, this is not something you need to be concerned with 
when purchasing a Pentium based computer.  Intel (and several 
other companies) have introduced Pentium Overdrive processors 
designed to be installed into a 486 computer and are suppose to 
give a 486 computer the same speed and power of a Pentium based 
computer.  However, in my experience they don't really do the job 
so I don't recommend you even
consider these types of Overdrive processors.  These Pentium 
Overdrive processor are expensive enough that you could almost 
buy a real Pentium CPU and motherboard to go into your 486 
computer.


----------
CHAPTER 4

RAM 












     Random Access Memory (also called RAM) is what the computer 
uses to remember things it is working on at any one moment in 
time.  For example:  Let's say you think of two numbers and you 
add those two numbers in your
head.  You haven't forgotten the original two numbers, and now 
you have a third number (the two numbers added together) in your 
head. This is similar to how computer memory (RAM) works.  RAM is 
referred to in a number of "Megabytes" so you'll hear or see it 
written as some number of megabytes of memory (or RAM).  However, 
sometimes manufacturers abbreviate the word "Megabytes" to MG, MB 
or Meg.

     Most people don't consider RAM an important part of buying a 
computer.  This is probably due to the fact that they don't 
understand what a huge difference the amount of RAM the computer 
has can make on performance.  When purchasing a new computer, try 
to think ahead (remember Chapter 1) and determine your current 
and future needs.  Buy the amount of RAM you will need in the 
future (about 1 year) and not what you need today.  Why?  
Simple...  the general rule of thumb regarding RAM is "you can 
never have too much".  However, it is very easy to have too 
little.

     Having the right amount of RAM (or more) greatly improves 
your computer's performance when running large programs (DOS or 
Windows based).  For example:  Windows performance can be 
increased by 25 percent or more by simply having the right amount 
of RAM.  Only having 4 megabytes, however, is not considered 
enough these days because most programs need more RAM.  The ideal 
amount of RAM to buy is 12 megabytes simply because most programs 
need that much RAM to run at acceptable speeds.  Having 8 
megabytes will work for most computers, but having 12 megabytes 
will provide a 10%-20% increase in speed (especially when using 
Microsoft Windows or Windows 95 - see Chapter 11 for more 
information).
If you will be running multiple programs (at once) then 16 
megabytes makes more sense.  

     If you buy a laptop or notebook computer, intend to run it 
from the internal battery, and run large programs then you should 
consider buying it with even more RAM than you would buy for a 
comparable desktop computer.  The reasoning is simple; larger 
programs (especially Microsoft Windows based programs) access the 
internal hard disk drive (for more information see Chapter 5) 
more often and will cause the battery to run down faster.  If 
your laptop or notebook computer has more RAM, then more of the 
program can be loaded into RAM at once, therefore, eliminating 
the need to access the hard disk drive
as often and extending battery life.

Memory Types

     RAM chips used to be sold as individual chips, but today 
several RAM chips are soldered together onto a plug-in board 
called a module.  This RAM module is called a SIMM (Single 
In-line Memory Module).   SIMMs come in two basic designs: an 
older design that has 30 connector pins and a newer design that 
has 72 connector pins.  Each computer is designed to use one or 
the other of these SIMM designs. When looking at new computers, 
only buy a computer that uses the newer 72 pin SIMM design.  It 
is less expensive and still superior in design to the 30 pin SIMM 
design so you'll get better SIMMs and pay less for them.

     SIMMs come in several difference speeds.  The most common 
speed is called 70 nanoseconds (ns).  The rule in RAM is the 
lower (or smaller) the nanosecond number, the faster the RAM will 
operate.  Therefore, a 60 ns SIMM is faster than a 70 ns SIMM.  
Don't buy a computer that has SIMMs slower than 70 ns (greater 
than 70 ns such as 80 ns), because they'll be too slow to work 
with today's fast CPUs (for more information see Chapter 3).  
Some manufacturers are even including 60 ns SIMMs at no extra 
charge.  This is a bonus for you because your SIMMs will likely 
work with the next generation of CPUs.



----------
CHAPTER 5

Disk Drive 














     Every computer must have some way of adding new software to 
the computer, saving something you've worked on, (like a word 
processing
document) and in general storing the software the computer needs 
to operate.  This is where
"computer disk drives" come in.  Disk drives are used to store 
data about anything you want and this data can be changed at 
anytime.  Therefore, when the computer is turned off, whatever 
you wanted to save isn't lost, and is still there the next time 
you turn the computer on.  There are several different types of 
disk drives such as Floppy Disk Drives, Hard Disk Drives, and 
CD-ROM drives (CD-ROM drives are discussed in Chapter 10 - 
Multi-Media).

     A Floppy Disk is a thin piece of magnetic plastic surrounded 
by another piece of non-magnetic plastic.  The floppy disk was 
invented some twenty years ago as a way of reliably storing 
computer data and information.  Floppy disks require a "Floppy 
Disk Drive" to be written to, read from, or erased, but the 
actual floppy disk can be removed from the floppy disk drive at 
anytime.  Since the floppy disk can be removed from the floppy 
disk drive, it can easily be used on multiple computers to share 
information between computers.  Since the first floppy disks were 
so large (over a foot in diameter) and were so thin, they tended 
to sag or "flop" over when being handled.  Therefore, as you may 
have guessed, they were named "floppy diskettes". Originally 
"diskette" was the correct name, but over the years people 
shorted the name to "disk" so now both "disk" and "diskette" are 
considered correct. 

     Through the years, because of their ease of use, floppy 
disks have been used on virtually every computer made, and are 
still widely used today.  Due to this popularity, manufacturers 
have continued to improve the floppy disk (and their drives) so 
today, floppy disks are far superior to floppy disks of the 
earlier days.
For example: Floppy disks are now considerably smaller than older 
style disks (down to 3   inches wide).  Modern floppy disks can 
now hold thousands of pages of typed information (like in a word 
processing document) while floppy disks from those early years 
could only hold a few typed pages.  Newer floppy disk drives can 
also read, write, erase considerably faster than those early disk 
drives.  

     When IBM developed floppy disks (and their disk drives) for 
use in their first Personal Computers (PC) they used a floppy 
disk that was 5   inches wide.  This size has been popular ever 
since, but in recent years has lost popularity and is not even 
included on most new computers.  Sony was the company that caused 
the lost popularity in 5   floppy disks because they developed a 
smaller disk that can also hold more information.  It is called a 
3   inch disk and is unlike other floppy disks because instead of 
a soft, flexible outer cover (like used on 5   disks) they use a 
hard plastic cover.  The 3   disk is still considered a floppy 
disk, but it is literally no longer "floppy".  As a result of 
this, people sometimes confuse the 3   floppy disk with a "hard 
disk drive".  See Figure 5a below.  We'll cover hard disk drives 
later.

Figure 5a - Examples of 3   and 5   inch disks.
     New computers will likely come with one 3   floppy disk 
drive.  As I said before, since the 5   floppy disks have lost 
popularity, most manufacturers won't include a 5   floppy disk 
drive unless you request it and pay extra for it.  Some software 
manufacturers have even stopped selling their software on 5   
floppy disks.  


     Currently floppy disk manufacturers still sell four 
different types of floppy disks.  Of these four types there are 
two sizes (5   and 3  ) and four different amounts of information 
the floppy disks can hold.  This sounds harder than it really is 
so let me explain.  Every floppy disk has a certain "density", 
and that means how much data that floppy disk will hold.  Just 
like a 5 gallon bucket will hold more water than a 1 gallon 
bucket; a "high density" (also known as HD) floppy disk will hold 
more information than a "low density" floppy disk.  All new 
floppy disk drives are considered "high density", which means 
they can use a floppy disk that is considered "high density".   
In addition, high density floppy disk drives can use low density 
floppy disks.  The low density floppy disk will still hold less 
than a high density floppy disk, but you can use them with your 
floppy disk drive.  You cannot, however use a high density floppy 
disk in a low density floppy disk drive.  To make matters a 
little more confusing sometimes floppy disks are referred to by 
their storage capacity rather than by their size.  Consider the 
following chart:

Disk Size Disk Density   Disk Capacity  Number of full, typed 
pages
5         Low density         360 kilobytes       68 pages       
5         High density   1.2 megabytes       229 pages
3         Low density         720 kilobytes       138 pages
3         High density   1.44 megabytes      276 pages

  Note:   Currently, there are 3   disks that have a capacity of 
2.88 megabytes,     but these disks (and the floppy disk drives 
that use them) are moreexpensive, and not commonly seen in new 
computers.

     There is really no reason to buy anything less than high 
density floppy disks unless you intend to use those diskettes on 
a computer that can't use high density disks.  There is only a 
small difference in price between high density and low density 
floppy disks.

     There is another type of disk drive called a "Hard Disk 
Drive" (also called a "fixed disk drive").  It is similar to 
floppy disk drives in several ways such as it can read, write, 
erase your data.  However, that's generally where
the similarities end.  The hard disk drive is usually hidden 
inside the computer.  The reason it is called a hard disk drive 
is because the internal disk is made of metal.  A hard disk drive 
does not have removable disks (a few, very select hard drives 
have removable disks, but these are not common). 

     Virtually every computer sold today comes with some type of 
hard disk drive.
You may be asking yourself "If I have a floppy disk drive then 
why do I need a hard disk drive?"  Here's your answer.  The 
average hard disk drive to come with a computer today holds 740 
megabytes to 1 gigabyte (1024 megabytes).  Compare that to the 
1.44 megabytes one floppy disk will hold.  The average program 
today will require at least six megabytes.  Are you starting to 
see the problem here.  WordPerfect 6.1 for Windows comes on 
eleven 1.44 megabyte floppies and will not work until it is 
installed on a hard disk drive.  Hard disk drives have been able 
to keep up with the current program sizes, but floppy disk have 
not.  Therefore, virtually all of the software you can buy today 
must be installed on your hard disk drive.

     Besides the obvious advantage in the amount of information a 
hard drive can hold compared to a floppy disk, there is another 
important advantage.  The average hard drive can read, save, and 
erase your information up to 100 times faster than a floppy disk 
drive so you're spending less time waiting on the computer.

     Hard disk drives have a variety of capacities (just like 
floppy disks) and the average hard drive sold today is 740 
megabytes to 1 gigabyte.  In the last few years, the prices of 
hard disk drives has fallen dramatically while their capacities 
have gone through the roof.  Having a 1 gigabyte hard drive on a 
personal computer even 5 years ago would of been totally unheard 
of.  This trend of lower prices and higher capacities is 
continuing so in the next few months the average capacity of a 
hard drive sold with new computers will be either 1.2 or 1.6 
gigabytes.  If you feel you need even more capacity than that, 
larger drives are available and have over 2.0 gigabytes.

     There has always been competition in the market place for 
companies to make faster, higher capacity, physically smaller 
hard disk drives.  Therefore, a number of different types of hard 
disk are available such as Enhanced IDE (EIDE), IDE and SCSI 
(pronounced Enhanced I-D-E,  I-D-E and scuzzy).  There are 
actually several types of SCSI hard drives, but since most people 
aren't likely to ever use SCSI, I'm not going to discuss them.  
Now I know what you're thinking "What in the world do these 
letters mean?"  That's not important, but what's important is 
virtually every new computer being sold now uses either an EIDE 
or an IDE type of hard disk drive.  When you're out looking at 
computers, ask if the computer has an IDE or EIDE hard drive, 
because that will give you a clue to how "up-to-date" the 
computer and the manufacturer are.  EIDE is a newer and faster 
version of IDE, and has been available for the past several 
years.  There is no cost difference between an EIDE and IDE hard 
drive made by the same manufacturer for the same capacity drive.  
There is, however, a 10-40 percent difference in how much or how 
fast the drive can do something.  Therefore, you definitely want 
an EIDE hard drive, and not an IDE hard drive. 

----------
CHAPTER 6

Monitor 








     Computer Monitors (also called Monitors) are similar to 
televisions because they both display images on a screen, but 
that's where the similarity ends. Televisions are allowed to be 
less exact in how they display information
on the screen, because the images you see on television aren't 
nearly as complicated as the images a monitor must handle.   
Monitors are used more than any other part of a computer, yet 
many people treat them as an afterthought when purchasing a 
computer.  Don't!  Regardless of what you're doing on your 
computer, you're staring at the monitor.  Therefore, shop for a 
good monitor that's easy to look at and won't cause eye strain.  
You'll be thankful you did. 


Size

     Monitors come in various sizes usually ranging from 14" to 
21" and are usually referred to by their size.  For example: most 
people have 14" SVGA color monitors.  The size of a monitor is 
based on the diagonal distance from one corner of the monitor 
tube to the other (see Figure 6a).  This doesn't mean the visible 
part of the monitor tube, but rather the actual corner of the 
tube.  Therefore, you may see a monitor that is labeled as 14", 
but the visible part of the tube is less than 14".  In monitors, 
this is perfectly normal, and almost every manufacturer labels or 
sizes them this way regardless of the size.  So when you're 
looking for monitors, don't be too shocked when your monitor 
turns out to be a little smaller than the name or label implies.  
If you're curious, most television manufacturers refer to their 
television by the size of the display (corner to corner) that is 
actually showing and not by the tube's actual size.  Therefore, a 
25" television IS a 25" television while a 25" monitor's viewing 
area is probably more like a 23" or 24".  I would like more 
computer monitor manufacturers to catch on to this television 
idea.  Usually the larger (and more expensive) monitors come full 
featured, so in addition to size, you'll usually get more 
features too.







Figure 6a -Example of how monitor size is
measured.












Dot Pitch

                                       The "Dot Pitch" of a 
monitor is very important because this number indicates how clear 
the image on your monitor will be.  Have you ever adjusted the 
focus on a camera so it's almost right, but not quite, and the 
picture doesn't look as good as it could?  This is how the dot 
pitch works.   The lower the dot pitch number, the better the 
image will be.  The dot pitch, measured in millimeters, actually 
indicates how close the dots (that make up the letter or image on 
the screen) are together. I'll say it again, the lower the dot 
pitch number, the better the image will be.  An average dot pitch 
is 0.28 while and 0.26 or 0.25 is considered great so pay 
attention to the numbers (see Caption 6b).

     Therefore, when you're shopping for monitors (or the monitor 
that comes with the computer) look at the dot pitch because 
monitors with a poor or less than average dot pitch will appear 
out of focus and may cause eye strain.  You shouldn't have to pay 
more for a monitor with an average dot pitch so if they try to 
sell you a monitor with a less than average dot pitch, walk away.  
You will thank me later.
Caption 6b - What dot pitch do you want and how good are your 
eyes?
How crisp and clear would you like your monitor to be?

Dot Pitch Explanation
0.39 -    Considered terrible by today's standard.  Only Poor 
Quality monitorshave dot pitches so high!
0.31 -    Considered worse than average and visibly noticeable to 
most                           people.  Avoid it!
0.28 -    Considered average for most monitors today.  This is 
acceptable for
          most people.
0.27 -    Considered better than average and more suited for 
graphical use.
0.26 -    Considered much better than average and better suited 
for more
          graphical use.
0.25 -    Considered far superior to the average, and best suited 
for                           indiscriminating taste and highly 
graphical use.
Flat Screen

     In the last couple of years, monitor manufacturers have 
begun producing what is called "Flat-Square tube" monitors (also 
called Flat screen monitors).  These tubes are somewhat misnamed 
because the tube is neither flat nor square, but they appear more 
so than regular "curved tube" monitors called "Vertically Flat 
tubes" that are used in most televisions.  Fortunately, more 
manufacturers are using the flat tube design and haven't raised 
their prices in the process.  There are several advantages to 
flat tube monitors compared to curved tube
monitors and they are as follows:

- Less glare on the front on the monitor
- More accurate colors along the edges or corners of the monitor 
front
- More stable graphics along the edges or corners of the monitor 
front
- A more realistic image (especially with highly graphical 
images)

If you can purchase a flat screen monitor for little or no 
difference in price then do it.  You'll be glad you did, but 
don't pay a ton extra just for this one feature.

Resolution 

                                         Whether you realize it 
or not, your television actually displays the image by a 
combination of vertical and horizontal lines.  This is called 
resolution and all televisions and computer monitors use this to 
display what you see.  Your television has one resolution, and it 
adjusts everything to that resolution so all the images you see 
fit nicely on your television screen.  However, most computer 
monitors can display or use many resolutions, and are therefore 
more flexible to display many different types of images.   Higher 
resolutions (more lines on the screen) give you more detailed 
images while lower resolutions give you less detailed images.  
When you're looking at resolutions they are usually written as 
horizontal lines by vertical lines (640 x 480, 800 x 600, 1024 x 
768).

     When it's time to shop for a monitor (or the monitor that 
comes with your computer) you'll need to pay attention to what 
resolution the monitor can handle.  The more resolutions your 
monitor can handle, the more flexible it will be to do the things 
your want.  For example:  Kodak has been advertising it's 
"Photo-CD" products that allow you to display photographs you've 
taken to be displayed on your computer monitor.  This process 
requires higher resolutions, otherwise you're pictures won't look 
as good.  If your monitor can't handle the resolution Kodak needs 
then you're out of luck.

The average 14" monitor will support the following resolutions:  
Remember it's written as horizontal lines by vertical lines 
(number x number).

     640 x 480 
     800 x 600
     1024 x 768

If the monitor you're looking at doesn't support these 
resolutions, then walk away.

     Better quality monitors are now supporting even higher 
resolutions such as 1280 x 1024 or 1600 x 1280.  These 
resolutions pack so much information on the screen at once that 
you will usually need a larger (17" or above) monitor to 
appreciate the fine detail you'll see.

SVGA vs VGA

     When shopping for monitors you're likely to see the letters 
VGA and SVGA written everywhere.  These letters simply indicate 
the type of monitor it is and what resolutions the monitor is 
capable of displaying.  VGA (Video Graphics Array) is a standard 
that IBM developed some years ago for displaying information on 
the monitor in a certain way and resolution.  VGA by default uses 
a resolution of 640 x 480.  SVGA (Super Video Graphics Array) is 
a newer standard based on VGA that gives you a higher resolution 
of 800 x 600.   SVGA is considered absolutely the bare minimum 
for any monitor buyer these days.  Today's monitors can handle 
resolutions higher than the SVGA resolution (800 x 600), but 
they're still called SVGA.


Cost

     The following indicates the price range one should expect to 
see when purchasing a monitor.  Remember, better monitors 
generally cost more and have more features, and nicer controls.  
The larger the monitor is, the harder it is to manufacture and 
thus the more you pay for it.

          Low-End   High-End

14"       $150      $500
15"       $170      $600
17"       $650      $2,000
20"/21"   $1,800    $4,500


Non-Interlaced vs. Interlaced

     Monitors, just like televisions, create an image on the 
screen by firing electron beams at the front of the screen in 
horizontal lines across the screen from top to bottom.  An 
Interlaced display creates a full image on the screen in two 
passes, creating the even lines first and then going back to the 
top to create the odd lines.  This is O.K. for graphics since 
they constantly change, but it's not very good for text or 
numbers (like in a word processor).  A newer standard called 
Non-Interlaced creates the entire image (all lines) on the screen 
at once, and makes the text and numbers appear cleaner and easier 
to read.  Non-Interlaced monitors are considered superior so when 
choosing a monitor, make sure it's non-interlaced.  You may have 
to pay $10 or $15 more for a non-interlaced monitor, but it will 
be worth it.  Most monitors 17" or larger should automatically be 
non-interlaced, but it doesn't hurt to ask.


Vertical Refresh Rate

     The Vertical Refresh Rate (also called a vertical scan rate) 
indicates the number of full screens the monitor can "paint" in 
one second.  The vertical
refresh rate is often written in terms of Hz such as 72Hz.   
Since most humans can perceive a "flicker" effect (like a strobe 
light) when the vertical refresh rate drops to or below 60Hz, you 
should buy a monitor that can display a minimum of  72Hz in every 
resolution (at least the standard three resolutions mentioned 
above).  Most monitors today will do this, but not all, so be 
careful.  The net effect of using a monitor with a vertical 
refresh rate of 60 Hz or less is sometimes headaches and 
eyestrain.


Green Monitors 

In the past several years there has been a flurry of interest in 
the area of "Green" technology (sometimes called Energy Star).  
Green is a "catch all" term for computer equipment that when not 
being used (for a certain amount of time) will automatically 
power down to conserve electricity (called Green mode).  The 
"green" part comes in when you consider that using less power is 
healthier for the environment (and your wallet).  Currently, you 
can buy green computers and green monitors (not to mention green 
laser printers).  Most of the new monitors being sold are green 
compatible, and when I say green compatible I mean the monitors 
have the ability to power down.  Keep in mind the computer has to 
tell them when it's time, because the monitor has no other way of 
knowing.  Green computers are designed to tell the monitor when 
it's time to shut down and in addition most green computers can 
themselves go into green mode.  If you never leave your computer 
on while it's not being used then this may be no big deal, but if 
you leave it on all the time then this could save you money on 
your electric bill, help the environment, and extend the life of 
your computer.



----------
CHAPTER 7

Printer













     A printer is a device that transfers information from a 
computer onto paper, much like a typewriter.  There are currently 
three main types of printers
available on the market (dot matrix, inkjet, and laser) and you 
need to decide which printer will best fit your needs.

     Dot matrix printers have been around since the 1970's and 
have been widely used.  Instead of printing like a typewriter, a 
dot matrix printer uses a row of pins to print the characters on 
the paper (see the dot matrix example in Figure 7a).  In an 
effort to increase the quality of the print from a dot matrix 
printer, manufacturers have increased the number of pins on the 
print head.  This allows the printer to print the dots (that make 
up the letter or symbol) closer together so it looks more like a 
quality typewriter's print.  Another method widely used by 
manufacturers is to print the same line twice and this gives a 
darker, more realistic look to the print.  Unfortunately, of all 
printer types, dot matrix printers are the loudest, so if noise 
levels are important then don't buy a dot matrix printer.  Dot 
matrix printers generally cost between $50 to $300.

     In the late 1980's another new kind of printer technology 
called inkjet hit the market.  An inkjet printer actually 
"squirts" the ink onto the paper, and the print looks more 
professional than a dot matrix printer (see Figure 7a), but not 
as good as a laser.  An inkjet's print is almost as good as a 
laser's print, but if you compare the two side by side, the 
laser's print will be cleaner and smoother (less jagged edges).  
On these printers, you'll see prices from $150 - $1,500.  A few 
years ago, Canon developed a new form of inkjet technology called 
bubblejet.  Since bubblejet printers are actually inkjet 
printers, I won't elaborate on them further.

     In the early 1980's Canon developed a new technology and 
printer called a laser printer.  Laser technology allows a 
printer to place ink (toner) onto paper very much like a 
photocopier does.  This allows very neat and elegant looking text 
while also allowing a wide use of very fancy fonts, colors and 
graphics.  Unfortunately, until the last several years, the 
prices for laser printers were fairly expensive.  Today, prices 
are very good ($400-$2,500) and most anyone who can afford a 
computer can afford a laser printer.  

     


Figure 7a  - A very close up example of what typical text
          looks like from each of these types of printers.















     Most dot matrix printers use what's called "continuous feed" 
paper.  The ends of the paper are simply connected together so 
it's like one "continuous" sheet of paper.  Inkjet and laser 
printers use single sheets like a photocopier does.  If you must 
print long documents and you want them to look good then I 
suggest getting a laser printer rather than an inkjet printer.  
Most laser printers will hold more paper than the typical inkjet 
printer.  This is especially true of the higher-end laser 
printers that have multiple trays to hold the paper.

     Most dot matrix printers usually only print black, but some 
nicer models will print color (with a special printer ribbon).  
Since the print of a dot matrix is not as clean or clear as other 
printing technologies (such as inkjet or laser), it is not really 
suited for color, graphics, etc.  It is mainly suited for regular 
print and lots of it, like long reports, or information that 
needs to be printed quickly. 

     Most dot matrix printers have some type of fonts (different 
ways lettering can be displayed) built into the printer, but as 
usual, more expensive models
have more built in fonts.  However, since the print capability of 
a dot matrix printer is limited, don't expect fancy fonts to come 
with or work with the printer.  If you intend to print things 
that are to look professional (like business letters, a resume, 
documents, etc.), then a dot matrix printer won't cut it and 
you'll need an inkjet or laser printer. 
     Inkjets will print color and do a pretty good job at it, but 
if you want to print graphics (with or without color) then you 
should use heavier paper.  Otherwise, the ink will "bleed" 
through and saturate the paper (so it looks wrinkled).  In Figure 
7a, I included a blown-up example of a letter printed on an 
inkjet printer with paper that is too thin.  See how it bled 
around the letter.  Most inkjet printers will print between 1 and 
5 pages per minute which is considered slow next to laser 
printers ability to print between 4 and 16 pages per minute.  If 
you don't need a fast printer, then an inkjet is a good 
compromise between laser printers and dot matrix printers.  
Remember though, the print quality is not as good so it must look 
good and be fast, a laser is the only way to go.

     Laser printers are the best kind of printer you can buy, but 
it will cost you more than a dot matrix or inkjet printer, 
especially if you want to print color.  Color laser printer 
prices have continued to fall these last few years, but the 
cheapest color lasers are still around $4,000-$5,000. 

     Canon has licensed other companies to use their laser 
technology so you'll see a number of manufacturers offering laser 
printers.  When comparing laser printers, pay close attention to 
the amount of memory (RAM), fonts, expandability (adding more 
fonts or RAM), and warranty.  This is where manufacturers cut 
corners.
Less expensive laser printers will generally print 4 to 6 pages 
per minute while more expensive models will print 8 to 16 pages 
per minute.  Faster printing laser printers can be beneficial if 
you print a lot, so you must decide what you think you'll print.  
The more expensive models also generally come with more memory 
and fonts which allows you to print better graphics and more 
impressive looking things.  You must remember that if you intend 
to print graphics or charts, then the printer must have enough 
memory to do it. 
Otherwise, you will continue to receive errors from the printer 
saying you don't have enough memory.  Therefore, when buying a 
laser printer, look ahead and anticipate whether you'll want to 
print graphics or charts and either buy the a model that has the 
memory already or a model where you can add the memory at a later 
time.  Most lower end laser printers don't give you the option of 
adding more memory later, so be careful.

     Laser printers use "toner cartridges" while inkjet printers 
use "ink cartridges" and dot matrix printers use "ink ribbons".  
Each of these types of "ink" has to be
purchased for the specific printer you own and the cost can vary 
greatly.  For example: a typical ink ribbon for a dot matrix 
printer should cost between $15 to $20 while a toner cartridge 
for a laser printer should cost between $70 to $90.  Inkjet 
cartridges fall in the middle at $20 to $30.

----------
CHAPTER 8

Modem 












     A modem (short for MODulation/dEModulation) translates 
"computer
language" to and from something your normal telephone will 
understand so you can use the telephone line to talk to another 
computer.  Modems have grown in popularity during the last decade 
due to a number of reasons such as lower prices, higher speeds, 
smaller sizes and the number of people and businesses using 
on-line services (like the Internet, CompuServe or America 
On-Line).   If you want to call the office with your computer or 
connect to any on-line services, then you must have a modem.

     Modems are classified by how fast (how much) they can send 
or receive data in a second and this is called the modem's kbps 
(KiloBits Per Second).  For example: a 28.8kbps (also written 
28,800bps) modem transfers (sends or receives) 28,800 bits per 
second.  28.8kbps is currently the fastest standard two-way modem 
speed available, and it is what you would want in a modem.
     
     If you're going to buy a modem then your best bet is to buy 
a V.34 (28.8kbps) modem and not a V.FC (28.8kbps) modem.  Why?  
Simply because a V.FC modem may not be able to connect to 
everyone you want to call.  Now I don't mean a V.34 modem that 
also supports V.FC.  That's fine.  You simply don't want a modem 
that only supports V.FC and not V.34.  If you want more detail on 
why V.FC is bad then read the following paragraph.  

     In 1993 a new modem standard called V.FC (Fast Class) 
emerged and was at that the time the fastest standard available, 
but it was and still is a complete disaster. V.FC was the early 
version of what is now called V.34.  While the V.34 standard was 
evolving, and long before it ever became a "true world-wide" 
accepted standard, many modem manufacturers jumped the gun and 
introduced their own version of V.FC.  Here's the kicker; since 
each modem manufacturer used their own version (and set of rules) 
to develop their V.FC modem, most of the V.FC modems wouldn't 
properly work with other V.FC modems from other manufacturers.  
The whole reason for standards is so the modem from one 
manufacturer can talk to the modem from another manufacturer.  
V.FC is called a standard, but it never really was, since very 
few modem manufacturers agreed on the specifics of the V.FC 
standard.

     In the summer of 1994, the V.34 standard was finally 
complete and accepted by the world as a true standard.  Since 
that time, most of the modem manufacturers that developed V.FC 
modems have gone back and updated them so they work correctly 
with the V.34 standard.  Most V.FC modem manufacturers have or 
are still offering some type of upgrade so users that own V.FC 
modems can get V.34 modems.  

     If you're in the market for a modem, don't buy a V.FC modem 
because as I explained above; you'll have problems!  Consider 
some of the following reasons why V.34 is superior to V.FC:

    -V.34 modems are cheap these days so the few bucks that you 
would save bybuying anything less wouldn't be worth the trouble 
you're likely to encounterwith other modems that won't work with 
V.FC modems.
    -V.34 performs better (can send or receive at a faster pace) 
on noisy phonelines (modems like quiet phone lines).
    -V.34 can adjust faster to adverse phone line conditions 
(your daughter picksup the phone while your modem is dialed into 
the office computer).
    -You can count on other V.34 modems being compatible with 
your V.34                                                        
modem.

     Each modem speed (like 28.8kbps) requires some type of 
communications standard behind it (like V.34) so each modem knows 
what "language" it is supposed to speak and understand.  These 
types of standards have been around since the very first modems 
were invented.  Figure 8a shows most of the more recent 
standards, and what speeds (how fast the modem can send and 
receive) are possible when using these standards to talk to 
another modem.

     New computers are likely to have some type of modem 
included, but beware because not all modems are equal (see Figure 
8a).  Several years ago modem manufacturers started building fax 
computer cards and modem cards into one card.  The result was the 
ability to also send and receive faxes with your computer in 
addition to the modems capability.  It was a great idea and I'm 
very happy most modem manufacturers still do this today.  
Unfortunately,
several computer manufacturers will offer with their computers a 
2400/9600 fax/modem and that means the modem runs at a maximum of 
2400bps while the fax portion run at a maximum of 9600bps.  Don't 
be impressed because that modem is only worth five bucks.  By 
today's standards, that fax/modem stinks!  The average fax/modem 
today runs at 14.4kbps/14.4kbps (also written as 14.4/14.4) and 
the better cards are 28.8kbps/14.4kbps.  14.4kbps is currently 
the highest fax speed.  Comparing the times required to transfer 
one document file on a 2400bps modem verse the same document on a 
28.8kbps modem shows the 28.8kbps modem can transfer (or receive) 
that document in 1/12 the time.  Yes, really!  Just imagine the 
difference in your waiting and long distance charges!  The 
difference in price between average fax/modems (14.4/14.4) and 
the better 28.8/14.4 fax/modems isn't more than about $50 so if 
you're in the market for a modem, do yourself a big favor and get 
the 28.8kbps version.  You'll be happy you did.

     Modems often have what's called a theoretical throughput 
number.  Don't get fooled by this.  This number is simply the 
absolute largest possible, under perfect conditions (Are your 
phone lines perfect?  I think not!)  number of kbps the modem can 
send or receive. The number is almost always four times the rated 
kbps of the modem.  In other words:

     *    A 2400bps modem has a theoretical send and receive 
ability of                                                       
9600bps.
     *    A 14.4kbps modem has a theoretical send and receive 
ability of                                                       
57.6kbps.
     *    A 28.8kbps modem has a theoretical send and receive 
ability of                                                       
115.2kbps.

     I've listed below the minimum features you should expect 
from your modem.    Since a 14.4kbps modem is considered an 
average modem these days, and you really should be buying a 
28.8kbps modem (because of the speed and small price tag), I've 
only included features for these two modem speeds.  Somewhere on 
the fax/modem box you should see a list of the supported 
standards (the things listed below).  If you're buying the 
computer, and it has a
fax/modem in it then ask the computer dealer if the modem is 
compatible with the following list of standards.  If it isn't 
then you don't want it! 



Figure 8a  - The vertical axis shows the standards that allow the 
modems to 
          operate at the speeds shown on the horizontal axis.  
The speeds on  the horizontal axis are all in bps and not in kbps 
(ie. 28,800bps is   the same as 28.8kbps).  V.32terbo is another 
standard that never      caught on (ie. you don't want it!), but 
I included it to show the     speed difference between it and 
V.34.




A list of the minimum features you should expect from a new 
fax/modem:

                    14.4kbps            28.8kbps
Modem section:      V.32bis             V.34
                    V.32                V.32bis
                    V.42bis             V.32
                    V.42                V.42bis
                    V.22bis             V.42
                    V.22                V.22bis   
                    MNP 2-5             V.22
                    16550 UART *        MNP 2-5
                                        16550 UART *

Fax section:        Class 1 & 2              Class 1 & 2
                    V. 17 (Group III)   V. 17 (Group III)
                    V.29                V.29
                    V.27ter             V.27ter
                    V.21                V.21

    Note: A UART is a special chip which allows the modem or fax 
to operate at  certain speeds.  Currently, a 16550 UART is the 
best (fastest) and  what your 14.4kbps or 28.8kbps MUST have.  If 
it has a 16450 then don't buy it regardless of what they tell 
you!

     Even before the V.34 standard had been approved, speculation 
had already started on how modems could be made to go even 
faster.  As I (and a number of other people) predicted, this came 
about in the form of V.34bis.  V.34bis is based on V.34, but has 
been "tweaked" to deliver up to 33.6kbps (compared to 28.8kbps 
with V.34) and has just recently become available on the market.  
In fact, only a few modem manufacturers currently support it.  
Since V.34bis is expected to become an accepted standard, I have 
included it in Figure 8a.

     Remember, the faster the modem then the faster you can send 
or receive files, messages, etc.  This is true only if your modem 
is talking to a modem just as fast as it is.  Consider Figure 8b.

Figure 8b -  This figure shows the calculated time and cost of 
transmitting a 1
          megabyte file from New York to San Francisco.  Notice 
how much
          quicker and cheaper it is to use a 28,800bps modem 
compared to
          the 2,400bps modem. 

  Note:   This is a generalization because actual throughput 
depends on
          the compressibility of your file and telephone rates 
may vary by carrier.
          The data in this graph originally appeared on the back 
of a TWINCOM        14.4DFi fax/modem box. 


----------
CHAPTER 9

Mouse









     The mouse is a small, hand-held, electronic device that 
controls the movement of the cursor on a computer screen.  The 
mouse sends signals to the computer as it moves across a surface, 
and the computer software interprets the signals as cursor 
movements and button presses.  The mouse was originally developed 
in 1963 by Doug Engelbert at Stanford Research Institute.  It was
intended for use with Engelbert's Augment computer, but really 
grabbed attention when it was later used by Xerox, Apple 
(Macintosh) and then Microsoft (see Figure 9a).

Figure 9b  - An example of atypical Logitech 3-
          button mouse .


Figure 9a  - An example of a Microsoftmouse (with two buttons).




     








     For the mouse to work with a software program, that program 
must be written to understand the signals sent to it from the 
mouse.   The mouse works by placing a small arrow on the screen 
that the user controls by moving the mouse around on a surface 
and by pressing the mouse's buttons.  The mouse has really become 
most popular for use with what is called a "Graphical User
Interface" (see Chapter 11 - Software) for more information on 
GUI) and it generally allows quicker responses and greater 
(easier) control.  For example:  If you want to tell the computer 
"YES", rather than type it, you simply click (with the mouse) on 
a box (called Yes) and you're done.  It is also great for use 
with drawing and graphics programs where the keyboard just 
doesn't give the same ease of use.

     About fifteen years ago, another type of pointing device 
called a trackball was also invented.  A trackball is 
kind-of-like a mouse that is sitting upside down (see Figure 9c).  
Rather than move the mouse around a surface (and thus the ball 
inside the mouse), the user moves the ball (which is exposed) 
with their hand.  A mouse is not superior to a trackball and 
vice-versa.  It really comes down to user preference.  In 1991, a 
device called a "track-mouse" was invented which is really a 
combined mouse and trackball.  The track-mouse was designed and 
intended 
for use with laptop computers that don't always have room for a 
regular mouse to be used.  


Figure 9c  -  An example of a typical
           trackball.  The buttons are on the other side of the 
ball in this figure.











                                       


     You may see a mouse that has two buttons and others that 
have three buttons.  Why the difference you ask?  Simple.  When 
Microsoft developed their version of the mouse, they included 
only two buttons, but when Logitech (Microsoft's largest mouse 
manufacturing competitor) designed their version they included 
three buttons (see Figure 9b).  If you're curious, the Apple
Macintosh mouse only has one button.  Logitech thought that 
someday, there would be a common use for the third button, but to 
this day the third button still doesn't have a standard use.  If 
you have a specific need though, that third button can be 
"programmed" to do special things so it can still be handy.  The 
left and right mouse buttons are very standard and used by all 
"mouse capable" software.  As a result of this difference in the 
number of buttons, two mouse standards evolved.  Microsoft's 
version is called "Microsoft mouse mode" while Logitech's version 
is called "PC mouse mode".  Most programs will understand both 
standards and you as a user will probably never know the 
difference.  Today, there really isn't much of a difference in 
these two  mouse standards, so choose a mouse that feels right to 
you and your hand.  If a mouse isn't comfortable to you, then 
you're not likely to use it or enjoy it.  It should feel like an 
extension of your hand. 

     Unfortunately, there is a large gap between a good mouse and 
a cheap mouse.  A good mouse (like Logitech or Microsoft) is more 
expensive, but also tends to last longer than a less expensive 
mouse made by other mouse manufacturers.  I hate to say this 
because I don't want good companies to lose business, but it's 
easier to find a poorly built mouse than it is to find a quality 
built mouse.  The mouse is definitely one place where it pays to 
spend the extra $20-$30 because otherwise, you may be buying 
another mouse in a year compared to three or four years.  After 
six years I'm on my third mouse.  The first two were cheap and 
broke within a year so I went out and bought a more expensive, 
quality built mouse and have never looked back.  

     Most computer manufacturers today include some type of mouse 
with the computer.  If there is a specific mouse design, 
manufacturer, color, etc. you want, then tell the dealer, because 
they will usually be willing to substitute it for you.   Quite a 
few computers come with either an actual Microsoft  or Logitech 
mouse so you can feel safe with these.  Unfortunately, companies 
that try to cut corners will often save money by including a less 
expensive mouse, so be careful.  However, some computer 
manufacturers include a Microsoft or Logitech mouse with their 
name on it.  For example:  Compaq and Dell both sell computers 
with a Logitech mouse included, but they place their name on it 
rather than Logitech's.  It's the same exact mouse except for the 
name printed on it. 


----------
CHAPTER 10
Multi-Media
Multi-Media computers (also called MPCs) are becoming more and 
more common as their ability grows in popularity.  The term 
Multi-Media isn't an exact phrase, but it generally means the use 
of graphics and sound on a computer.  Since most good sound comes 
from audio CDS (compact disc), and heavy graphics take up so much 
space, Multi-Media usually means the computer has a CD-ROM drive.  
If you want to take advantage of the thousands of available 
multi-media software titles that mix graphics, sound, and video, 
then you should buy a multi-media computer. If you already own a 
non-multi-media computer, kits are sold that upgrade your 
existing computer to a multi-media computer.
When you're buying a multi-media computer, don't be afraid of 
spending more money to get superior multi-media ability.  I'm not 
talking about spending more for the computer itself, but spending 
more to get better multi-media parts (sound board, speakers, 
CD-ROM drive, etc.).  This will give you a better sounding system 
with smoother graphics.  Now, obviously, if sound is more 
important to you then you can spend more for the sound card 
itself and get an average CD-ROM drive or vice-versa. Most 
computer dealers will allow you to tell them exactly what you 
want and don't.
CD-ROM drives are like audio CD players because they will also 
play your favorite audio CDS, but in addition they will read 
what's called a CD-ROM disc.  CD-ROM is short for Compact 
Disc-Read Only Memory. In English this means it's a CD that can 
only be read from and not written to like a hard disk drive or 
floppy disk.  CD-ROMs cannot be used in audio CD players, because 
of the way the CD-
ROM is made and the fact they contain data (like floppy disks) 
and not music.  That doesn't mean that there may not be music on 
the CD ROM, only that the music on the CD-ROM is specifically 
written so it can only be read by CD-ROM drives.
For a computer to make sound, some kind of "Sound card" is 
required and these cards can almost always be found in 
Multi-Media computers. However, not all sounds cards are created 
equal.  Two companies (Creative Labs, Inc. and Adlib, Inc.) have 
really set most of the standards in the industry.  Therefore, 
most companies make their programs compatible with these two 
company's sound standards.  When you're looking for sound cards, 
look for compatibilities developed 
by these companies .  The following shows two sound cards (one 
low end and one high-end), their features and prices.
Low-End     High-End
Sound Blaster Pro compatible  Sound Blaster Pro compatible
Adlib compatible        Sound Blaster 16 compatible
8-bit only sound    Adlib compatible
8-bit bus connector   8 & 16-bit sound
FM Synthesis MIDI support  16-bit bus connector
poor to fair sound quality  15+ voices
Average Price: $25-$70   Wavetable MIDI support   

    CD (IE. Great) quality sound

    Average Price: $70-$700  
CD-ROM drives come in several speeds and obviously, the faster 
the drive, the faster it can retrieve data from the CD-ROM, so 
you're not slowed down by the CD-ROM drive reading the disc.  
This is especially true when dealing with heavy graphics and 
animation (being read from a CD-ROM).  If the drive is too slow 
then the graphics or animation will appear choppy instead of 
"fluid" like images on your television do.
The very first CD-ROM drives are called Single speed drives 
because they read the data on a CD-ROM and the music on an audio 
CD as the same speed (ie. one speed or Single speed).  A year or 
so later, Double speed CD-ROM drives hit the market.  They are 
the same as single speed CD-ROM drives with respect to reading 
the music on an audio CD, but they read the data from a CD-ROM at 
"Double" the speed of a single speed drive.  Triple speed drives 
read a CD-ROM at "Triple" the speed of a single speed drive and I 
will bet that you can guess that a Quad speed drive reads the 
CD-ROM at Quadruple the speed of a single speed drive.  This 
trend remains consistent through today's fastest CD-ROM drives, 
the 12X (12 times) speed drives.
A few manufacturers have released what are called 4.4, 4.5 and 
6.7 speed drives.  These are actually Quadruple and 6X speed 
drives that have been
"tweaked" to run faster than typical Quadruple or 6X speed 
drives. For example, a 4.5 speed drive can read 675 kilobytes of 
data per second, while a typical Quadruple speed drive can read 
600 kilobytes of data per second.  These drives costs a little 
more than typical Quadruple or 6X speed drives, so if you can get 
one for the same price as a Quadruple or 6X speed drive, go for 
it.  Otherwise, your money is better spent on a 6X, 8X or faster 
drive.
Figure 10a shows the difference between various speed CD-ROM 
drives. Normally, CD-ROM drives have their speed measured in how 
many kilobytes per second (KB/sec) of data they can read from a 
CD-ROM.  Displaying graphic animation using a single speed drive 
(at 150KB/second) would look very choppy 
while animation on a 8X or faster speed drive would look very 
smooth. Also, loading programs from a single speed drive will be 
slower than from a higher speed drive.
MIDI (short for Musical Instrument Digital Interface) is a 
standard designed to allow a computer (through a MIDI compatible 
sound card) to control digital musical instruments.  For example: 
electric drums, synthesizers, keyboards, and digital mixers can 
be controlled with a computer and this allows a great deal of 
power in mixing and editing music.  A number of bands use this 
technology to help them when they perform in concert and are 
recording new songs.
Multi-media computers have a lot of other uses (besides those 
mentioned above) both in the business world and at home.  They 
allow playing, editing, and recording of any type of sound or 
video to or from the computer.   For example: Since I'm a Star 
Trek fan, I have all sorts of Star Trek sounds and voices on my 
computer just to make the computer more interesting and less 
routine.
One feature that largely separates the superior sound cards from 
the inferior sound cards is the type of MIDI (FM synthesis or 
Wavetable synthesis) it supports. 
Wavetable synthesis is the superior type of MIDI.  Therefore, if 
you are a composer or just serious about better sound, then get a 
sound card that has wavetable synthesis MIDI support.  Wavetable 
synthesis is essentially a stored bank of sampled notes recorded 
from actual acoustic  instruments.  Wavetable sounds are much 
more realistic than those created by FM synthesis.  
Unfortunately, sound boards that support wavetable synthesis are 
more expensive, but they're worth it.  FM synthesis mimics the 
notes and timbre of instruments using operators or sine waves, 
and its reproductive powers are limited.  Even the most 
inexperienced listener will immediately identify its tinny 
sounding notes as those of a synthesizer.
Most multi-media computers come with small, inferior speakers 
that really don't allow the computer to sound its best.  If you' 
want the most out of your multi-media computer then buy better 
speakers (and don't use the speakers that come with the computer 
or the multi-media kit).  Generally, better speakers are the same 
type of speakers (except for how they attach to the computer) 
that you would buy for a home stereo. These speakers cost more, 
but they are worth it because your computer's sound can now 
really be heard.

----------
CHAPTER 11



Software










     Today, just about every IBM or compatible computer comes 
with a minimum of DOS and Microsoft Windows or Microsoft Windows 
95, but more and more manufacturers are including other software 
packages.  For example:  Some manufacturers include graphics 
programs, financial programs, and spreadsheet software.

     When you're ready to buy, pay attention to what software the 
computer manufacturer offers.  If the manufacturer includes the 
software you want and would otherwise have to buy, then you've 
saved yourself some money.  However, don't be fooled into 
thinking you're getting something for nothing because you're not.  
The price of the software has been included into the price of the 
computer and more often than not, computer manufacturer pay 
considerably less for the software than you would if you went to 
your local computer store.  Therefore, it's still a good deal for 
all involved.


Software version numbers

     Ever since programmers started writing programs, they needed 
some way for users to be able to understand different variations 
of the program.  One very common way is to number the versions of 
the program.  For example: the first version would be called 
version 1, the second would be called 2, the third 3 and so on.  
Some companies take this a step further and include additional 
version numbers.  For example: a company has a program that is 
version 1 and they make a small change to the program.  The 
company decides the change isn't big enough to call the revised 
program version 2 so instead they call it version 1.1.  If they 
later 
make another small change then they call it version 1.2.  Even 
later they make a lot of changes and decide they changed enough 
to call the newest version 2.0.

     Almost always, the larger the number is, the newer the 
software version.  Microsoft currently sells MS-DOS version 6.22 
and they reached this version number by continuously adding 
enhancements to MS-DOS.  Consider the following and pay close 
attention to how and why the version numbers change.


Microsoft sold version MS-DOS 5.0 several years ago and since 
that time:

1)   They made major enhancements to MS-DOS 5.0 and renamed it to
     MS-DOS 6.0.

2)   Next, they made some minor enhancements to MS-DOS 6.0 and   
renamed it to MS-DOS 6.2 (yes, they skipped the version number 
6.1).

3)   Then, they made some very minor enhancements and renamed it 
to
     MS-DOS 6.21.  

4)   Lastly, they made more very minor changes and renamed it to 
MS-DOS                                                           
6.22. 


Disk Operating System (DOS)

     Every computer must have some type of software that 
translates what you want into what the computer can understand; 
this software is called the Operating System.  When you're out 
looking at computers and they tell you DOS is included, they are 
simply telling you the computer comes with the required Operating 
System.  You're probably asking yourself "Why would it not come 
with it?" and the answer is because that Operating System 
software costs money and some computer manufacturers didn't use 
to include it because of that extra cost.

     Currently, three main companies produce Disk Operating 
Systems (DOS) for IBM and compatible computers (IBM, Microsoft 
and Novell).  Each company designs their version a little 
differently so it will look and act a little different, but still 
provide all the required features of a Disk Operating System.  
Each company also has its own unique numbers for its version of 
DOS and the most recent versions are as follows (as of late 
1995):

          Novell DOS     version 7.0
          Microsoft DOS  version 6.22
          IBM PC-DOS     version 7.0

     If a manufacturer includes software with the computer, then 
make sure it is the current version.  Some manufacturers still 
include MS-DOS 6.20 with their computers even though the current 
version of MS-DOS is 6.22.  There are some important enhancements 
between those versions so always insist on the most recent 
version of any included software.  Be aware though, some 
manufacturers intentionally buy old versions of software so they 
can include it with the computer, and make it more appealing to 
buyers.  If you request the current version of that software, 
they may charge you extra for it.  Considering that some included 
software is better than no software at all, this is a fair deal.

     Some manufacturers sell their computers with their software 
"pre-installed".
This simply means someone else installed the software for you 
before you bought the computer.  This isn't always a good thing 
because they may install something you don't want to use or in a 
way you don't like.  These are considerations you must compare to 
installing the software yourself.  The largest disadvantage to 
pre-installed software is it gives the manufactures a chance (a 
chance they usually take) to NOT include the original disks or 
CD-ROMs with the computer.  This is a cost cutting measure for 
them, and they will usually sell you the disks or CD-ROMs for 
some fee.  I have even heard of one manufacturer that doesn't 
include the software manuals to save money!  Consider what 
happens if you have a hard drive crash and lose all the software 
on the computer.  You have no original disks or CD-ROMs to 
restore any of the software with.  You're in serious trouble.  
Therefore, insist on getting the original disks or CD-ROMs, even 
if you must pay for them.  Simply because if something can go 
wrong, it will!


Graphical User Interfaces (GUI)

     Some operating systems (or operating environments) use 
pictures or graphics rather than words to represent actions (like 
checking for spelling mistakes).  This is called a Graphical User 
Interface (GUI).  The Apple Macintosh computer has always had 
this type of user interface while until recently, IBM and 
compatibles have not.  Currently, there are several operating 
systems or operating environments that use this type of user 
interface such as IBM OS/2, Apple Macintosh System 7, 

Microsoft Windows, and Microsoft Windows 95.  GUIs generally 
offer a number of advantages such as:

- common support for the use of a mouse
- use of pull-down menus
- use of dialog boxes (it asks you a question and you answer)
- all types of data and graphics can be easily mixed together
- the support of WYSIWYG 
     This is an acronym for "What You See Is What You Get".  The 
term                                                             
WYSIWYG, pronounced "wizzy-wig", is used as an adjective to refer 
to                                                               
computer programs such as word processors that generate screen 
images that                                                      
are identical in position and type appearance to the final 
printed document.
- GUIs are generally easier to use and learn
- programs that use a standard GUI tend to look and feel like 
other programs that         are designed to use that same GUI.  
Therefore, new programs are easier to learn.


Microsoft Windows

     Microsoft Windows (also called Windows) is the most popular 
and widely used GUI for IBM and compatible computers.  It was 
first introduced back in the mid 1980s and continued to gain 
strength until 1990 when it really became popular.
Today, Windows (one version or another) comes on more than eighty 
(80) percent of all computers sold world-wide.  Windows is 
covered in more detail
later in this chapter.


IBM OS/2

     IBM OS/2 is a GUI and similar in appearence to Microsoft 
Windows.  The current version of OS/2 is called OS/2 Warp.  It 
was first introduced shortly after Microsoft released Windows, 
but has taken much longer to become generally accepted, even 
though it is technically superior to Windows to several ways.


For example:

     - It does not require a separate Disk Operating System (DOS) 
as previous versions of Windows did (Windows 95 doesn't either).
     - It will works with programs written to work with Windows 
(not Windows  95), as well as programs written for OS/2.
     - It is a more stable GUI (it will "crash" less often)
     - It requires less of a computer (less RAM, hard drive 
space, etc.) to do the  same work as Windows or Windows 95.

The largest draw-back to OS/2 is there are not as many programs 
written for it as there are for Windows. 


Understanding How to Read the Names and Versions

Microsoft Windows version numbers are confusing to a lot of 
people.  The following quote is from an e-mail posted on the 
Internet.

     "What is the highest version of windows?  Some say 3.11 or 
Windows NT.
       Still others say it's 6.0a. I know all about Word....they 
still say it's 
       Windows 6.0a though.  I had one person say they even had 
6.0c."

     The problem here is this person doesn't understand how to 
read the name and version of Windows or programs written for the 
Windows environment.  First I'll explain how to read the names of 
programs written for Windows and then explain what the current 
versions are.

     Since there are many kinds of operating systems (DOS, 
Windows, OS/2, Unix, and System 7), software makers must name the 
software so people can determine what operating system the 
software will work with.   When you're looking at software, look 
on the box and you'll see something indicating what operating 
system the software requires.  Here's how to interpret it.


     If I say "I use WordPerfect for Windows 6.1." I'm actually 
saying "I use WordPerfect Version 6.1 that is specifically 
written to work with the Microsoft Windows environment."  The 6.1 
is actually the WordPerfect version and not the version of 
Windows being used.  I could have also said "I use WordPerfect 
6.1 for Windows".  This is perhaps the easiest to understand.  
You may be thinking "Why can't I simply say I use WordPerfect?"  
You can.  However, since there are versions written for DOS, 
Windows, System 7, etc. and some characteristics are different 
between these versions, that may not be specific enough.   


Current versions of Windows

     There are currently three variations of Windows being sold 
(Windows, Windows for Workgroups, and Windows 95).  Both Windows 
and Windows for Workgroups are version 3.11, but Windows for 
Workgroups includes a few extra programs (such as e-mail, 
scheduler, etc.) for use on a network.  Without some type of 
network, these extra programs aren't much good, so if you don't 
have a network or foresee having a network in the near future; 
don't pay the extra money for the Workgroups version.

     The most recent version of Windows is called Windows 95.  
Think of it as a Windows version 4.0.  Microsoft decided the 
"official" name of this new version would be Windows 95, because 
they thought people would better understand the name "Windows 95" 
compared to "Windows version 4.0".  It is superior to previous 
versions of Windows (Windows and Windows for Workgroups) in 
several ways.  The following is a list of some of the 
improvements Microsoft made:

- it no longer requires a separate DOS
- supports 32-bit processing
- performs better multi-tasking (running more than one program at 
once)
- adds "Plug and Play" compatibility (Plug and Play is a term 
that refers to an                                                
Operating System that is smart enough to recognize when hardware 
has been                                                         
added, removed, or changed inside the computer.  It makes all of 
the                                                              
necessary changes to itself so everything will work correctly.  
The whole idea behind Plug and Play is to make it easier for the 
average person to add,                                           
remove or change hardware in the computer.  Plug and Play is 
still very new                                                   
so it still has some quirks or problems, but these should be 
resolved as more                                                 
hardware manufacturers make their hardware Plug and Play 
compatible.                                                      
Windows 95 is the only GUI I'm aware of that currently supports 
Plug and                                                         
Play, but I'm sure others will have it in time.)

Windows 95 currently doesn't have a lot of applications written 
specifically for it (and it's new features), but more programs 
are being written everyday.  Therefore, this should not be an 
issue for long.

     There is also another Windows product called Windows NT (the 
current version is 3.51), but this IS ONLY intended for use on a 
network computer and not for home or personal use.  The name may 
be the same, but it's a totally different kind of program and is 
considerably more expensive compared to Windows or Windows for 
Workgroups.   You will not see Windows NT installed on any of the 
computers you intend to buy unless you're buying a network.


Comparing Software

     When you're out comparing various software programs (like 
word processing software) don't compare them based on their 
version numbers, but rather on their features and abilities.  Let 
me explain.  Both Microsoft and WordPerfect make word processing 
software that are currently called version 6.0.  Since both are 
version 6.0, you must compare programs to see which is a better 
program, has more features, and is easier to learn, and not the 
version numbers.  The version number doesn't tell you much more 
than how long the company has been working on it.


Word Processing

     One of the most popular uses for personal computers is word 
processing.  It is an information processing system that relies 
on automated and computerized typing, copying, filing, dictation, 
document storage, and retrieval.  A word processor is a computer 
program designed to provide easy manipulation of text.  It can be 
used to write letters and/or documents, while inserting, 
deleting, and/or changing words, 
paragraphs, or pages.  WordPerfect, Word Star, PC-Write, and Word 
are popular word processing programs.


Spreadsheet

     A spreadsheet is a computer program that uses a grid to 
provide a structure for entering, calculating, storing, and 
organizing information.  For example: a spreadsheet could be used 
for making budgets or keeping track of your bank account balance.   
VisiCalc, Lotus 1-2-3, Quattro Pro, and Excel are popular 
spreadsheet programs.


Database

     A database is a computer program that allows similar pieces 
of data to be linked together in an organized way.  For example: 
a database can be setup to store the name, address and age of all 
employees at a company.  Later, if someone wants to know which 
employees lives on Elm street or how many employees are over the 
age of 20, the database would quickly provide that information in 
an organized way.  Database programs are very powerful and can 
store huge amounts of almost any kind of data.  dBASE, FoxBASE, 
Access, and Clarion are popular database programs.

----------
CHAPTER 12

Protecting your Computer and your Data











     This is a commonly forgotten area of owning a computer.  
Unfortunately, the idea never even occurs to most users so that 
dreaded day comes when something important disappears because of 
some disaster and the user is left helpless.  Fortunately, with a 
little planning, most disasters can be avoided and recovered from 
and this is what most users just don't realize.  Since there are 
so many different "disasters" that can occur, I've broken the 
more frequent disasters and solutions down into sub areas below.

Backing-up the Computer

     The number one precaution a user can take to protect 
themselves from losing precious data is to simply make a backup 
of the computer's hard disk.  The software needed to make backups 
has been available by a number of software manufacturers since 
personal computers came into existence and is relatively 
inexpensive.   In fact, MS-DOS 6.0 (or newer, such as 6.22) comes 
with the software to make backups (MSBACKUP) so users have no 
excuse not to make backups.  With a backup of the entire hard 
drive, users can now afford to lose all data from their hard 
drive (and even lose the hard drive itself), because they have a 
backup.  With a few steps and about an hour or two, the data can 
be back in place, exactly the way it was before the disaster.  
Now, isn't that little bit of time backing up the data worth  the 
piece of mind you'll gain?  Consider backing up like paying 
insurance, because every time you make a backup, you pay for 
insurance.  Unfortunately, this is a lesson that most people must 
learn the hard way, but maybe you'll be different.

     To make the process a little more understandable, consider 
that a hard drive has so much space that is used by documents, 
programs, etc.  The backup program figures out how much space is 
being used and copies all of your documents, and programs to some 
type of media such as floppy disks or a storage tape.  The floppy 
disks or storage tape(s) can then be stored in a safe place and 
used again only if you're making another backup or performing a 
restoration of the data (because your hard drive crashed).

     There are several ways to backup the data on a hard disk.  
The most
common is to use diskettes to hold the information and depending 
on the size of the hard drive, this can amount to a few dozen or 
many hundred diskettes.  A faster and more convenient way to 
backup is to use a tape drive.  This is like a disk drive except 
it uses a tape that looks like a small version of a VCR tape and 
can only be used for backing up data.  Good tape drives sell for 
$150 to $300 these days and can backup anywhere from 250 
megabytes to 850 megabytes per tape.  Can you imagine having to 
use 600 diskettes to backup a hard drive?  Neither can most 
people, which is why tape drives are the obvious choice for 
computers with hard drives bigger than 100 megabytes.  Other 
advantages of tape drives are they can backup the same data in 
considerably less time compared to using diskettes, and the tape 
drive can backup all the data totally unattended (without user 
interaction).  These are some reasons why most businesses use 
tape drives to backup their precious data.  They simply cannot 
afford to lose data and they must have something that can do the 
job fast and unattended during the night.  When making backups, 
three or more distinct sets of backup tapes or diskettes should 
be used.  That way if one set gets ruined then there are still 
two more sets to fall back on.  Once the initial full backup is 
made, partial backups can be made that only backup what data has 
changed.  Using this method will require more time to restore if 
a disaster occurs, but should be adequate for most users.  If you 
want maximum protection then always do full backups.  Remember, 
your hard drive backup must be kept current, otherwise it isn't 
protecting you and you're just asking for trouble!

     When you purchase the computer, ask the dealer to include a 
tape drive and expect to pay extra for it.  If you already have a 
computer, then consider buying a tape drive because it will give 
you the added insurance all computer users need.   There are less 
than a dozen tape drive manufacturers, so computer manufacturers 
buy the same tape drives you see selling in computer stores.  
Therefore, don't be worried about quality differences between 
tape drives included with a new computer and the tape drives sold 
separately in stores.  Make sure the tape drive you get 
(separately or with the computer) can store enough data on one 
tape to completely backup the entire hard drive.  If you want to 
save money and don't mind having to use several tapes each time 
you make a complete backup, then you can get a tape drive that 
won't store as
much data on each tape.



Viruses

     Another increasing risk to your data these days is the 
computer virus.  A virus is a computer program that often hides 
itself from the user so it can do something destructive to your 
data, programs or documents.  For example: one common virus is 
named Michelangelo because on Michelangelo's birthday, the virus 
will erase everything on your hard drive!  Therefore, having a 
virus is not something you want and should be avoided at all 
cost.  A number of software makers sell programs called 
"Anti-Virus" software that will detect and destroy viruses.   In 
fact, MS-DOS 6.0 (or newer, such as 6.22) comes with anti-virus 
software so again users have no excuse not to check regularly for 
viruses.  Since no program can catch all viruses, having your 
backup of the entire hard drive is essential.  These programs are 
constantly updated so make sure you keep yours up-to-date.  This 
will help to protect you against newer viruses and keep your 
virus protection strong.
     
Power

     Since computers require clean power, the computer should be, 
if possible, on an electrical circuit that doesn't have other 
major appliances (air conditioners, refrigerators, heaters, etc.) 
on it.  Circuits that have too many major appliances on it can 
cause too little power (called brown outs) being available for 
the computer, and this can cause damage to your computer.  
Therefore, think ahead of where you will plug your computer in.  
A great way to combat  brown outs or more important, blackouts 
(total power failure), is to purchase an Uninterruptable Power 
Supply (UPS).  An UPS is an electronic device that meters the 
power going to the computer and will supplement (from a battery) 
that power if it senses there isn't enough power for the 
computer.  The battery inside the UPS is constantly charging so 
it can instantly jump into action to provide supplemental or full 
power to your computer.  This is advantageous
because it can prevent damage to your computer, allow you to 
properly exit any programs and save anything you may be working 
on before the power totally goes off.   An average UPS will 
provide 15 to 30 minutes of full power to the computer before its 
internal battery runs down and usually costs $100-$250.


     Another device that monitors the power going into the 
computer is called a surge suppressor.  A surge suppressor can 
detect and sometimes (depending on the strength of the power 
surge) stop a power surge (spike) and thus prevent damage to your 
computer.  This is one area where you get what you pay for 
because cheap models cost less than $50 and can't stop much of a 
surge, but superior models, that cost above $1,000, can stop 
fairly large surges.  Don't get me wrong, any protection 
is better than no protection, but expect only as much protection 
as you pay for.  A good UPS will usually have a surge suppressor 
built right into the UPS.

     If you take everything I've mentioned above into 
consideration then you're ahead of 70 percent of all the computer 
users out there and 90 percent less likely to get burned by a 
disaster.

----------
End of Document


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